- A 30 amp RV usually needs a generator rated at 3,000 watts or higher to run key appliances.
- The exact generator size depends on how many devices you use at once, especially the air conditioner.
- Choosing the right generator means balancing power needs, portability, and noise.
- Surge wattage is just as important as running wattage. Always check both before you buy.
If you have a 30 amp RV, aim for a generator with a running wattage between 3,000 and 4,000 watts. This covers most of what you need, like the air conditioner, fridge, microwave, and a few outlets. But this is not a one-size-fits-all answer. Your actual usage means you may need more, or you might get by with less. The key is to look at your biggest power draw: usually your AC unit. Stack up your total watt needs from there. Do this before spending the money.
How Many Watts Does a 30 Amp RV Need?
A 30 amp RV’s maximum power draw is easy to find. The math looks like this:
Volts x Amps = Watts
For RVs in North America, think 120 volts:
RV Amps | Volts | Max Watts |
---|---|---|
30 | 120 | 3,600 |
In theory, 3,600 watts is your max at once from a 30 amp RV plug. But real-world generator sizing is about steady (running) wattage and peak (starting/surge) wattage for appliances. Excess matters.
Common Appliances and Their Power Use
Every appliance has two numbers: running watts and surge watts (needed to start up). Some examples:
Appliance | Running Watts | Surge Watts (starting) |
---|---|---|
13,500 BTU RV Air Conditioner | 1,400 | 2,800 |
Microwave | 1,000 | 1,500 |
Coffee Maker | 600 | 600 |
RV Refrigerator (electric) | 300 | 600 |
TV | 120 | 120 |
Blender | 400 | 850 |
You will almost never run everything at once, but it makes sense to add up what you plan to use together.
What Size Generator Covers a 30 Amp RV?
For basic comfort, a 3,000 watt generator will usually do the job for a 30 amp RV.
Let’s check a few typical scenarios:
- AC + fridge + lights + phone chargers: 1,400 + 300 + 60 + 20 = 1,780 running watts. Your surge for AC: 2,800 watts.
- AC + fridge + microwave (while cooking): 1,400 + 300 + 1,000 = 2,700 running watts. Surge to start everything: about 3,800 watts. This might nudge you into a 3,500-4,000 watt generator.
Even a 15,000 BTU air conditioner (not every 30 amp RV has these) may push you higher, sometimes above the 3,500 watt range.
What about if you do not use AC? In cooler seasons, you can run almost everything else, TV, lights, fridge, phone, maybe a coffee maker, with a smaller generator, sometimes in the 2,200-2,500 watt range.
But honestly, most RV owners want to run AC when off-grid, at least now and then.
Surge Watts vs. Running Watts
Your generator needs to deliver peak power on demand. Starting an RV air conditioner is the classic example:
Some generators claim high surge capacity, but if the running watts are too low, you lose out on reliability for anything longer than a minute or two.
This math is boring but vital. Always match the highest surge need (often your AC) plus everything else you could run simultaneously.
A personal note: When I first got my travel trailer, I skimped and bought a 2,200 watt generator. I saved money, but if I had company and brewed coffee while running the AC, the breaker tripped. I upgraded the following season to a 3,500 watt inverter generator. No regrets.
Portable Generator Types for 30 Amp RVs
There are two main styles:
- Conventional generators: Cheaper, usually heavier. Louder. Not all models provide pure sine wave AC, which matters for sensitive electronics. Still quite popular for tailgating and construction sites.
- Inverter generators: Quieter and more compact. Deliver clean power good for laptops and TVs. Often more fuel efficient, but also pricier for comparable wattages.
For RVers, inverter generators are the favorite. Few people want to listen to a “lawn mower on steroids” for hours.
Do You Need Two Generators? (Parallel Kits)
Some RV folks pair two smaller generators together with a parallel kit to combine output. Maybe you already own a 2,200 watt model. Buy a similar one, link them, and run your AC plus everything else.
Parallel setups can flex to your needs. Bring one for minor power, two when you want to fire up everything.
But there are downsides:
- Extra cost. Two smaller units cost more than one larger one.
- More maintenance. Two engines, two fuel tanks, more bulk.
- Sometimes less fuel efficient per watt.
This route makes sense if you value portability or already own a small generator.
What Size Generator Plug Matches a 30 Amp RV?
All 30 amp RVs in the United States use a TT-30 plug. It is not a standard three-prong household outlet.
When shopping, look for:
- Generators with a “30A RV Ready” TT-30R outlet
- If not included, buy a dogbone adapter: L5-30R to TT-30P or 14-50R to TT-30P
I nearly forgot this when buying mine. Not every hardware store carries these adapters. Double check before heading out on your trip.
Do You Need More Than 3,600 Watts for a 30 Amp RV?
No, your RV main breaker is 30 amps, so you’re limited to 3,600 watts max through that plug. Some generator companies sell 5,000+ watt models with RV outlets, but it will not give you more power into the RV. It mainly allows you to run more household-type equipment off extra outlets on the generator itself.
If you need to power a second RV or big outdoor tools, maybe, but for just your 30 amp RV, stick with a 3,500-4,000 watt model.
How Noisy Will My Generator Be?
Noise matters if you value peace or have neighbors nearby. Portable generators range from 50 dB (at idle, about as loud as a quiet conversation) up to 75 dB (lawn mower vibes).
Most inverter models in the 3,000-4,000 watt range hit 58-65 dB at rated output.
I have run both loud and quiet. The cheap, open-frame kind frustrated me the most. Pick the quietest you can afford if you value nighttime sleep or early morning coffee without drama.
Should You Choose Propane or Gasoline?
Dual fuel generators (those that use either gas or propane) are becoming more common. Propane stores longer, is cleaner burning, and is often easier to buy in some parks.
- Gasoline: Delivers more power per gallon. Easier to find in most places. But it goes bad if left in the tank long.
- Propane: Quieter and less smelly. Will not gum up your carb. But wattage drops about 10-15% using propane vs. gas.
This tradeoff only matters if you’re close to the wattage edge. If you want to run AC and other big draws on propane, size your generator on the safe side.
Popular Generators for 30 Amp RVs (Examples)
Here are a few real-world options that generally fit the bill:
Model | Running Watts | Surge Watts | Noise (dB) | Weight | RV Ready? |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Champion 3500-Watt Inverter | 3,000 | 3,500 | 59 | 96 lb | Yes (TT-30R) |
Westinghouse iGen4500 | 3,700 | 4,500 | 52 | 98 lb | Yes (TT-30R) |
Honda EU3000iS | 2,800 | 3,000 | 58 | 130 lb | No (adapter req.) |
Predator 3500 | 3,000 | 3,500 | 57 | 99 lb | No (adapter req.) |
Generac GP3500iO | 3,000 | 3,500 | 57 | 74 lb | No (adapter req.) |
If you camp alone, you might care less about weight, but for couples or families, anything over 100 pounds gets tricky to lug out of a pickup or RV compartment.
Solar Generators: Good Enough for 30 Amp RVs?
A lot of RVers are interested in solar lately. Here’s the truth: today’s portable “solar generators” (really just big battery packs) cannot power an air conditioner for hours. At least, not affordably or portably.
They will run lights, laptops, fans, and charge your phones for days. If you only use your RV fridge on propane, and skip the AC, a 2,000 watt-hour battery generator may be workable for light duty.
But for hot weather and normal modern comfort, a gas or propane generator still wins.
Solar is great for charging laptops and phones. But expecting a portable battery to run your RV’s AC for a weekend is not realistic yet.
Troubleshooting: If Your Generator Does Not Run Everything
If you run into trips or brownouts, don’t panic. It is usually one of these:
- You are trying to run both AC and microwave at once.
- Your fridge switched to electric only, not propane, and pulled extra watts.
- Starting surge of AC or fridge tripped breaker.
- Generator wattage listed is peak, not continuous, and you went over the limit.
Try switching heavy loads one at a time. If the generator keeps tripping, you may need to size up, or reconsider using huge loads together.
What Happens If You Use a Generator That’s Too Small?
Undersized generators trip breakers, run hot, and can even damage appliances over time from voltage drops.
You may also shorten the life of the generator itself. I have seen people force a 2,000 watt gen to run a big AC. It might squeak by in cool weather, but in 95 degree heat, it’s a lose-lose.
Can You Go Too Big on Generator Size?
Not for the 30 amp plug itself. Your RV cannot draw more than 3,600 watts from the TT-30 even if you hook up a monster generator. But oversized models are usually noisier, larger, and burn more fuel than needed.
So there’s a sweet spot. Just enough to run your essentials, but not twice as heavy as you need.
My Takeaway: Best Size Range for Most 30 Amp RVs
Aim for running wattage of at least 3,000 to 3,500. That covers your big AC startup (especially if your air conditioner is a newer high-efficiency model) plus microwave or coffee for a few minutes.
In very hot climates, or if you have guests, a 3,800 or 4,000 watt generator gives you a buffer. If you are a solo camper and run the AC only sometimes, even 2,800-3,200 watts might work out.
The most important thing is to add up the running and starting needs of your actual RV equipment. Brands love to exaggerate “all you need is 2,000 watts” but in most real situations, that is just too small.
If you are unsure, rent a generator rated for at least 3,500 watts, bring your RV out for a weekend, and see if you have power to spare. If not, you know you will never regret buying bigger.
The best generator is one that runs everything you truly want, is quiet enough to keep your neighbors happy, and is light enough that you do not resent moving it every trip.