• You do not need advanced skills or special tools to fit an awning to most motorhomes.
• Taking time to measure, prepare, and work with a friend can prevent damage and costly mistakes.
• Picking the right awning type and size for your motorhome will make installation much easier.
• Weather, mounting surface, and patience play a bigger role than most guides admit.

Fitting an awning to a motorhome sounds like a project best left to experts, but nearly anyone can do it with basic tools and some care. Here’s the process in plain terms: Pick an awning that fits your van, measure your space, drill and seal mounts carefully, attach the brackets, and make sure everything lines up before tightening. It takes planning, patience, and sometimes a second pair of hands, but you can do this yourself without much trouble.

What to Know Before Starting

Most people want to jump straight to the installation, but rushing this step is where headaches usually start. I used to think all awnings were basically the same, but I learned (once the hard way) that picking the wrong size or mount makes the job nearly impossible.

• Measure your motorhome’s length with extra care. Awnings come in standard sizes. A few centimeters off, and you either block doors/windows or leave gaps.
• Look at the roof and side wall shape. Some awnings suit curved roofs, others need a flat space. Not all brackets are universal even though they might look like it.
• Decide between roof mounted and wall mounted awnings. Roof ones can sometimes be easier but need clearance. Wall mounted versions sit under gutters and rain channels and could block openings.
• Factor in obstacles: vents, antennas, ladders, and lights. Every van seems to have something weird sticking out where you least expect it.
• Check manufacturer instructions and compatibility. Not all awnings work with all vans, despite what packaging claims. If in doubt, call their helpline and ask.

The biggest mistake is ignoring small details on your van’s bodywork. A tiny curve or ridge can throw off the awning alignment.

Types of Awnings for Motorhomes

Box Awnings

Box awnings are stored in slim cassettes that attach to the side or roof. They pull out, and the legs drop down. I like these because they look tidy and do not add much wind drag.

• Easy to deploy and pack away.
• Most common style for modern vans.
• Typically a one-piece metal or plastic housing.

Sack or Bag Awnings

Sack awnings slide into a rail and roll up into a flexible bag. They weigh less, but setup and stowing can be less convenient. Good for small motorhomes or campers where you want to save weight.

• Lower cost, but more manual work to pitch and pack.
• No hard case to protect while driving.

Inflatable Awnings

Inflatable models use air beams instead of metal poles. They’re easier for solo setup. I have to mention, though, that punctures are rare but possible, and some models need more space to store when packed away.

Roll-Out Awnings

These attach to a rail and simply unroll along the side of your vehicle. Tight for space, but not as tidy as a box awning. A compromise worth considering if cost is an issue.

Pick an awning not just for looks, but for ease of installation and regular use. The best option for one person might drive another person crazy.

What Tools and Items Do You Need?

Most common installations use:

• Cordless drill with driver and drill bits (metal and masonry bits if you have a brick storage bay surface)
• Spirit level (bubble level) for accurate alignment
• Measuring tape (at least 3 meters long)
• Pencil or marker for marking drill points
• Silicone sealant (and applicator)
• Socket and spanner set
• Awning brackets and supplied fixtures
• Helper or strong stick for supporting weight when aligning

Most kits ship with basic brackets and screws, but sometimes you will want higher quality stainless hardware to avoid rust down the road. If your van is insulated or has an inner panel, longer bolts or extra mounting blocks might be needed.

Finding the Right Spot

Walk along your van and look for the flattest stretch that is high enough so the awning clears doors and has no big joints or trim in the way. Midway along the body is usually ideal, but measure to see if your awning blocks any windows or hatches.

• Test-fit the bracket with masking tape so you can step back and check sightlines.
• If you are mounting on the roof, make sure there is room for the awning cassette to hinge outwards. Double-check solar panels, roof lights, or vents are not blocked.
• For wall-mount, allow for rainwater-runoff and keep above door height.

Mark out your mounting points and check, then check again. It sounds basic, but you only want to drill holes once.

How to Fit the Awning Step-By-Step

1. Mark and Measure

• Decide where the awning will be fixed , roof edge or wall.
• Mark each bracket’s hole positions with a pencil.
• Use a spirit level to make sure all brackets line up straight.

I find starting with the center bracket helps. Work outwards for the sides.

2. Drill Pilot Holes

• Use small bits first, maybe 3 or 4mm, to prevent slipping.
• Drill carefully to avoid going through wiring or insulation. Tap around and listen for hollow spots, just to be safe.
• Blow away or vacuum up any dust, so you get a nice fit.

3. Seal and Fix the Brackets

• Squeeze a ring of silicone around each hole to stop water getting in.
• Screw brackets in loosely at first , you want to adjust their fit before locking them down.
• If needed, use additional rubber gaskets (sometimes come with kits, they stop leaks).
• Tighten all screws, but not to the point of crushing the van panel.

4. Fit the Awning

• Lift the main awning unit onto the brackets. Big awnings are heavy , I would not try this step alone.
• Check everything lines up. The cassette should clip or lock into the brackets. There might be retaining pins or bolts to attach here. Every awning uses its own system.
• Double-check the mechanism works by gently unrolling a meter or two, then packing away again. Make sure it slides smoothly and locks.

5. Finish Sealing and Tidy Up

• Apply extra sealant to cover all exposed holes, bolt heads, and bracket edges.
• Remove any tape or pencil marks.
• I sometimes run a bead of white sealant along the top of the mounting bracket for extra weather protection. Probably overkill, but I like peace of mind.

Should You Fit an Awning Rail?

Some awnings slide into a dedicated rail that bolts onto the van wall. This can be a permanent aluminum channel or, more rarely, a clip-on strip.

• Follow the same steps for measuring and drilling as above.
• Make sure the rail is straight and properly sealed, or rain will find its way in.
• A rail lets you add annexes or extra rooms, and switching to another awning style later is easier.

A tip: If your van has an existing J-rail or C-channel from a previous awning, check compatibility. Some rails work with only a few brands. I would not trust friction-fit unless the manufacturer says it is safe for your awning weight.

Typical Awning Sizes Table

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Skipping pre-fit checks: Not holding the main unit up before fully fixing the mounts. I’ve regretted skipping this, more than once.
• Not sealing holes: Water will find a way in if you miss any sealing step.
• Tightening brackets before checking alignment: You want a straight, easy-deploy awning, not one that jams or tilts.
• Trying to fit solo: These units get heavy and awkward fast; attempts to do it alone usually end in small scratches or bigger regrets.
• Relying on soft mounts: Mount directly into metal or a strong wooden block. Thin fiberglass panels won’t hold up after a winter or a storm.

Take a minute with every step. Hurrying through fitting an awning is the surest way to make your next campsite visit stressful or dangerous.

Tips for Long-Lasting Installation

• Store your awning closed whenever you are driving. This keeps the mechanism free of road dust and extends its life.
• Inspect brackets and seals for movement or cracks every few months. Not hard to spot, but easy to ignore until it is too late.
• If your van shifts or bounces on rough roads, check the mounts for signs of stress.
• Occasionally lubricate moving parts if your model uses any.

A few minutes spent on yearly checks and cleaning is much easier and cheaper than having a ripped awning after a big gust of wind.

Are There Alternatives?

If you do not want a full cassette or rail awning, you have some lower-commitment options. Freestanding canopy tents, clip-in shade sails, and even magnetic privacy screens can offer sun shelter and privacy, but they do not stand up as well to wind or rain. I have seen travelers use portable sunshades and hook them over their side mirrors or roof racks. Not elegant but fine for a weekend or if your van is leased or borrowed.

There is no single “best” awning. It comes down to how often you use it, your budget, and how comfortable you are drilling into your van. Or letting a dealer do it, if you just do not feel comfortable taking that risk.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I Fit an Awning Myself?

With some patience and help from a friend, almost anyone can install a modern van awning. Most kits are designed for DIY, not just professionals. The key is slow, steady work and checking everything twice.

What If I Have an Unusual Motorhome?

If your van has a rare roof profile or retro styling, I suggest consulting an awning specialist or your vehicle dealer. Some older or imported vans need custom brackets, and trial-and-error gets expensive. It is worth waiting for the right kit.

Can I Use Existing Screw Holes?

Sometimes, yes, but only if you are sure about the previous installation and your new hardware matches the hole size and position. Always reseal old holes fully, even if covered up by a new bracket. Any water intrusion will show up in the worst possible place and time.

Which Brands Are Reliable?

I tend to look for awnings by Fiamma, Thule, and Dometic, but nearly every brand has some duds and some bestsellers. Avoid no-name imports unless many owners can vouch for them, or unless you don’t mind fiddling with fit and finish. If you ask on a forum, you might hear three different best answers , take them all with a grain of salt.

Should I Let a Dealer Fit It?

If you are not confident drilling into metal or aligning a heavy part, hiring a professional makes sense. A dealer fit can also be required by some warranties. It is more expensive, but sometimes the anxiety is not worth saving a bit of money. I like DIY, but mistakes are expensive when it comes to vehicle bodywork or leaks.

Final Checks Before Your First Use

• Open and close your awning all the way, a few times. Look for any catches or snags.
• Pour a little water over the brackets and look for any drips inside the van.
• Check all bolts/screws after driving the first 100 kilometers. Sometimes shaking can loosen new fittings.
• Prep some spare silicone sealant and a wrench set for your next few trips , just in case you notice movement or a leak.

No matter how perfect your install seems in the garage or driveway, a windy hillside campsite is the real test.

Quick Reference Table: What to Do at Each Step

If you work slowly, keep an eye on your lines, and double-check tightness and sealing, your awning will serve for years and add real comfort to your road trips. Some people treat theirs rough and complain about breakages, but I have seen decades-old awnings that still look and work nearly as well as new ones , it really just comes down to the care you put in at every step.