Noblesville electrician tips for safe RV and camp power

If you camp in an RV or run power at a campsite, the safest setup is one where your cords are sized correctly, your connections stay dry, your breaker panel and GFCI outlets work as they should, and you test everything before trusting it with your family. That is the short version. Most of what a noblesville electrician would tell you boils down to three habits: respect electricity, do not cut corners with cords or adapters, and fix small problems before they become big ones.

I think a lot of campers know this in theory, but things get casual in practice. You pull into a site late, it is getting dark, kids are hungry, so you just plug in and hope. I have done that. And then later wondered why the breaker keeps tripping or why the cord feels warm. Those are the little signs that your setup is not as safe as it could be.

Why RV and camp power feels tricky

At home, your wiring is usually predictable. At a campground, it is not. The power pedestal might be new, or it might be 20 years old. You might plug your RV into shore power, then add a space heater, then a portable fridge outside, then charge a couple of e-bikes. Suddenly that “should be fine” load is not so fine.

Electricians see the same pattern again and again: nothing goes wrong for a while, then something fails under stress. That stress might be a heat wave when air conditioners run all day, or a cold snap when everyone pulls out small heaters.

Strong power at camp is nice. Safe power is non-negotiable.

So instead of thinking of power as just another hookup, treat it like you treat weather forecasts or trail conditions. You check, you plan, and you adjust when something looks off.

Know your RV power basics before you plug in

You do not need to be an electrician, but there are a few core ideas you should understand if you camp with hookups or generators.

30 amp vs 50 amp vs 15/20 amp

Most RVs have either a 30 amp or 50 amp service. A simple way to think about it:

Many problems start when people treat these as interchangeable. They are not. A 30 amp rig running through a cheap adapter into an old 15 amp outlet can easily overload that outlet, especially if you run an air conditioner.

Learn the simple watt formula

This is one of those tiny things that helps a lot once you know it:

Volts x Amps = Watts

So for example, on a 30 amp RV service at 120 V:

120 V x 30 A = 3,600 W

That is your rough budget. If your air conditioner pulls 1,500 W, your water heater pulls 1,200 W on electric, and your microwave pulls 1,200 W, you can see the problem. Turn on everything at once and you are over the limit.

If you have frequent tripping breakers at camp, that is not “just how it is.” It usually means you are overloading something or the wiring is weak.

Check the pedestal before trusting it

Many people back in, line up, plug in, and move on. A better habit is to treat the pedestal like you would a used climbing rope: inspect before use.

Visual inspection steps

Walk through this simple mental checklist before you hook up:

• Look for cracked, burned, or melted plastic on the receptacles.
• Check for loose outlets that wiggle when touched.
• See if the cover closes fully to keep rain out.
• Read the labels near the breakers: 20 A, 30 A, 50 A, and so on.
• Make sure nothing is obviously rusted or corroded.

If anything looks burned or badly damaged, do not use that outlet. Ask for a different site or a repair. I know that feels awkward at a busy campground, but a burned outlet is not cosmetic. It tells you it has been overloaded or poorly connected before.

Use a plug-in tester or surge protector

A simple outlet tester or RV surge protector can save you from miswired pedestals. They are not fancy, they just check things like:

• Hot and neutral reversed
• Open ground
• Voltage problems

Think about what you plug into shore power. Fridge, electronics, maybe laptops, sometimes medical devices. Spending a bit on a good RV surge protector or an EMS (electrical management system) is not overkill in that context. You do not need the most expensive one on the shelf, but a real one beats plugging in blind.

Choose the right cords and adapters, not the cheapest ones

This is where a lot of campers cut corners. It is very tempting to grab the discount extension cord because you “only need it this weekend.” The problem is, those cords often run near their limit and heat up, which brings real risk.

Gauge and length matter

Wire gauge is one of those slightly annoying details that matters more than people think. The smaller the number, the thicker the wire.

For RV use:

• Use proper 30 amp or 50 amp RV cords rated for outdoor use.
• Keep cords as short as practical without stretching or pulling.
• If you need an extension, match the amp rating and gauge, do not downsize.

Long, undersized cords cause voltage drop and heat. You might not see anything at first except slower kettle boiling or a weak air conditioner. Underneath, the wire can run hot for hours. That is not safe.

The tricky world of “dogbone” adapters

Adapters are handy. Most of us keep a small collection around. The common ones:

• 30 amp RV plug to 15/20 amp household plug
• 50 amp RV plug to 30 amp pedestal
• 50 amp to 15/20 amp, sometimes chained

The honest truth: every adapter you add is one more place for heat, looseness, or corrosion. One adapter of good quality, kept dry, is normally fine. A chain of three plus a cheap household cord is asking for trouble.

Treat adapters as a way to step your RV down to a smaller supply, not a way to cheat a bigger supply out of a small outlet.

If you plug a 50 amp rig into a 15 amp outlet with a chain of adapters, you must think of that entire setup as a 15 amp system. That means no heavy loads all at once. The limiting factor is the weakest part in the chain.

Grounding, GFCI, and wet environments

Campsites are wet, muddy, and sometimes poorly graded. Water and electricity do not combine well, and you feel that most around wash areas, near the RV exterior, and with extension cords on the ground.

Why grounding actually matters to you

Grounding often feels abstract until it fails. A good ground gives stray current a low-resistance path back, instead of sending it through a person. If the pedestal is not grounded, or your cord has a broken ground pin, that extra safety layer is gone.

You can do a simple check:

• Look at your main RV cord. All blades and ground pin should be straight and solid.
• Do not use any cord or adapter with the round ground pin removed.
• Use a tester that can show an open ground at the pedestal.

Some people still use two-prong adapters or cut off ground pins to “make it fit.” That is one of the worst habits to bring into camping. It is not being clever, it is removing protection.

GFCI outlets around camp

GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets are those with “test” and “reset” buttons. You will usually see them:

• In RV kitchens and bathrooms
• On outdoor outlets on the RV body
• Sometimes on campground pedestals

A GFCI does not care how many amps you draw in the usual sense. It watches for current leaking to ground. If it sees that, it trips, sometimes in a fraction of a second. That can be the difference between a tingle and a lethal shock.

If your GFCI keeps tripping:

• Unplug all devices, then try again.
• Add devices back one by one until it trips again.
• The last thing you plugged in is the first suspect.

Repeated GFCI trips are not a quirk to ignore. Either the device has a fault or moisture and dirt are getting in where they should not.

Managing loads inside your RV or camp setup

Even at a nice campground, your power is a shared resource. Loading your RV like it is a full-size house can stress both your rig and the pedestal.

Make a simple mental load plan

You do not need a spreadsheet. A short mental list is enough:

• Big loads: air conditioners, electric water heater, space heaters, microwave, hair dryers.
• Medium loads: coffee makers, kettles, toasters, e-bike chargers.
• Small loads: lights, phone chargers, small fans.

Try to avoid running multiple “big” loads at once on a 30 amp system. On a 50 amp system, you have more margin, but it is still good practice. If you want to shower while running the AC and microwave, consider putting the water heater on propane for that time.

Watch for warning signs of overload

Things that an electrician would pay attention to, and you should too:

• Breakers that trip more than once in a weekend
• Extension cords that feel hot or soft to the touch
• Lights that dim when a big appliance starts
• Outlets that smell warm or plasticky

If you run your hand along a cord and it feels notably warm, not just a little above air temperature, unplug and think about that load. Heat in the wiring usually means resistance and stress.

Generator use around RVs and tents

Some campers rely on generators more than hookups, especially on public lands or at festivals. There are safety points for that too, separate from the obvious noise and fumes issues.

Placement and exhaust

Carbon monoxide is the first concern. It drifts. You cannot smell it. You know this already, but people still park generators too close to sleeping areas.

• Place the generator away from RV windows, vents, and tent doors.
• Mind wind direction. Shift the generator if the wind changes toward your site.
• Use RV carbon monoxide detectors and check their batteries regularly.

On the electrical side, use grounded outlets on the generator. If it has a floating neutral, follow the manufacturer guidance on bonding when connecting to an RV. This is where reading the manual actually matters, because different generators handle it in different ways.

Connecting a generator to an RV safely

You should only use the RVs proper shore power cord or a cord rated for the generator outlet. Avoid trying to backfeed the RV through an interior outlet. That might sound obvious, but some people do try strange workarounds.

If you feel tempted to “homebrew” a cord or adapter for your generator, that is probably the moment to pause and talk to an electrician back home. There are correct ways to bond neutrals, ground the frame, and size cords. Guessing is not great here.

Special issues for tent and car campers

Not everyone in the campground has an RV. Many sites have a simple 15 or 20 amp outlet on the pedestal that tent or car campers use for coolers, lights, or a coffee maker.

Safe use of standard outlets at camp

If you are in a tent or van and using that outlet:

• Use a heavy-duty outdoor-rated cord, not an indoor lamp cord.
• Keep connections off the ground, not sitting in puddles.
• Do not daisy chain power strips across the site.
• Pick one main strip with surge protection and keep it under cover.

Think about sleep too. People often run small electric heaters in tents. That can work, but the heater needs to be stable, away from sleeping bags and clothes, and rated for indoor use. Cheap heaters tip over or pull too much current on a long, thin cord.

Protecting kids and pets around camp power

Campsites are full of trip hazards: hoses, cords, stakes, and guy lines. Adding power cords into that mix affects safety in two ways: shock risk if insulation fails, and the simple fall risk if someone trips and pulls a cord loose.

Simple layout habits

A few habits that make sites safer without much effort:

• Run cords along edges or behind gear, not through walkways.
• Secure long runs with cord covers or tape where people cross.
• Keep plug connections under a table or under the RV, not exposed in paths.
• Explain to kids that pedestals are not play areas.

For pets that chew, treat cords like you would at home. If a dog might chew, route cords where they cannot easily reach them or use protective covers. It is not about being paranoid, just removing obvious temptations.

Rain, storms, and packing up wet gear

Camping has plenty of wet mornings. Wiping down chairs is one thing. Dealing with wet electrical gear is another.

During rain

Most outdoor-rated cords and RV connectors can handle some rain if connections are tight and oriented properly. Still, it helps to:

• Keep plug connections off the bare ground.
• Use cord covers or simple plastic boxes with drip holes to shelter plugs.
• Check for water pooling around the pedestal area.

If you see arcing, hear sizzling, or smell burning during rain, unplug right away at the pedestal breaker. Do not try to troubleshoot by touch on a wet surface.

Packing up after rain

Many people coil wet cords tightly and throw them into storage. That traps moisture and speeds corrosion at the plug ends. A better routine:

• Coil loosely so air can flow.
• At home, uncoil and let cords dry before long-term storage.
• Inspect plug blades for rust or corrosion and clean or replace as needed.

This sounds fussy, but corrosion adds resistance. Resistance adds heat. That slow buildup can turn into hot plugs and browned outlets a season or two later.

When you should actually call an electrician at home

Most of the work at the campground is about habits: checking, listening, and not overloading things. Some tasks, though, belong at home, with someone trained, before your next trip.

Common home-side upgrades for RV owners

If you store or prep your RV at home, you might want:

• A dedicated 30 amp or 50 amp RV outlet with proper wiring and breaker.
• A weatherproof box close to your parking pad.
• Grounding and bonding checked at the panel if you plan heavy charging or long prep times.

Running your RV on a random garage outlet with a skinny cord might work while you clean and load, but it is easy to overload that circuit with a fridge, charger, and a few tools also plugged in. A dedicated circuit gives you a margin of safety and convenience.

Signs that your RV wiring needs attention

You should think about having a qualified person inspect your RV electrical system if:

• Breakers trip even with light use.
• Outlets in the RV feel hot around the faceplate.
• You see flickering lights when on shore power but not on battery.
• You smell burnt plastic near the panel or outlets.

I know some RV owners try to fix these things on their own with videos and guesswork. Some repairs are straightforward, but miswiring a panel or bypassing a safety device is not a small mistake. If you are not totally comfortable with what you are changing, that is a bad place to experiment.

A short Q&A to tie this together

Q: Can I run my RV air conditioner on a standard 15 amp household outlet with an adapter?

A: Sometimes it will run, but it is not a good habit. A single AC unit can draw close to the full 15 amp rating, especially on startup, and that ignores everything else on that circuit. If you must do it for a short time, keep other loads off that circuit and monitor the cord and outlet for heat. Long term, a dedicated 30 amp RV circuit is safer.

Q: My RV pedestal breaker keeps tripping at a campsite. Does that mean the campground wiring is bad?

A: Maybe, but not always. Frequent trips often mean you are drawing more current than the breaker is rated for. Try turning off water heater electric mode or one air conditioner and see if the trips stop. If the breaker still trips under light load, or if the pedestal looks damaged, ask campground staff to check it or move you.

Q: Are cheap orange extension cords safe for tent camping if I only plug in a phone and a light?

A: If the cord is outdoor rated, in good shape, and not overloaded, light use like that is usually fine. The trouble starts when those same cords end up buried under rugs, run through doors, or used for heaters and big loads. For camping, a heavier 14 or 12 gauge outdoor cord is a better long term choice.

Q: Do I really need a surge protector for my RV?

A: Need is a strong word, but many RV owners who camp often decide it is worth it. Campground power is sometimes unstable, and a surge protector or EMS can protect your RV from miswired pedestals and voltage spikes. If you travel rarely and only stay at newer parks, risk is lower, but it is still not zero.

Q: What is one upgrade that makes the biggest safety difference for regular campers?

A: From an electrician point of view, a properly wired, dedicated RV outlet at home is near the top of the list. From a day-to-day camping view, a good quality RV surge protector and correctly sized cords solve many of the common problems. If you combine those with a habit of checking pedestals and managing big loads, you are far ahead of the average setup.