Generator Requirements for a 50 Amp RV with 2 AC Units

• You need at least 8,000 running watts of generator power for a 50 amp RV with 2 standard rooftop AC units.
• Some setups, especially with high-efficiency ACs or lighter RV use, can get by with less, but it’s risky if you want everything running at once.
• Choosing the right generator also means thinking about noise, fuel source, portability, and whether you plan to use more than just the ACs.
• Parallel-capable inverter generators can be a flexible solution if a single unit feels too heavy or costly.

Shopping for a generator that works with a 50 amp RV and two AC units is not as simple as picking something off the shelf. You want enough power to run both air conditioners plus other essentials at the same time, without tripping breakers. Most people will want a generator with 8,000 to 12,000 running watts, depending on what else you plan to use. Bigger is usually safer, but you can save money and weight by sizing carefully. Let’s get into the details to help you figure out what’s required, and where you might be able to get away with less.

Understanding 50 Amp RV Electrical Needs

A 50 amp RV is a different animal compared with a 30 amp rig. The plug has four prongs. That gives you two 120V legs at 50 amps each , not 240V (the way a stove uses power), but essentially two separate 120V circuits. At full draw, that’s potentially 12,000 watts:

But you rarely need 12,000 watts outside of a stick-and-brick house. Few RVs ever pull every amp on both legs simultaneously. The big power users, of course, are the air conditioners.

How Much Power Do RV AC Units Draw?

Not every rooftop air conditioner is the same, but the numbers here are fairly typical:

• 13,500 BTU AC (older/conventional): Draws about 12-15 amps running (roughly 1,500-1,800 watts)
• 15,000 BTU AC (common in newer/larger RVs): Uses about 14-16 amps running (1,800-2,000 watts)

Startup (when the compressor kicks on) pulls a surge of 15-20 amps, sometimes more. If both ACs start up at the exact same time, the dreaded ‘double spike’, you could need over 5,000 watts just for that moment. Heating elements and heat pumps act a bit differently, but we are sticking to typical cooling use.

A pair of modern 15,000 BTU AC units can demand up to 4,000 running watts and more than 5,500 starting watts together.

That explains why smaller generators that work for single-AC rigs run out of steam on 50 amp models with multiple units.

What Else Runs Alongside Your AC Units?

Here’s where a lot of people get tripped up. It’s easy to look only at the air conditioners. But what else is running? RV fridges, microwaves, battery chargers, TVs, and maybe even an electric water heater. When you add it up, you can easily chew through another 2,000 to 4,000 watts, depending on how much you rely on electric appliances.

Try a quick back-of-the-napkin estimate. Two running ACs: ~3,000 watts. Add fridge (600+), microwave (1,000), and some electronics (300), maybe the water heater (1,200). You’re at 6,000+ before even thinking about coffee makers, hair dryers, or the wife’s hair straightener. Suddenly those monster 9,000+ watt generators don’t seem so oversized.

If you plan to dry camp or boondock with your 50 amp RV, you want a generator that can keep both ACs running and handle other appliances without constant load-shedding.

Which Generator Size Should You Choose?

To put it plainly, you want a generator with at least 8,000 running watts, and preferably 9,000-12,000 if you like using the microwave, water heater, and all the other comforts. If you cut out every other load and only want to keep air conditioners alive, and you never run both at the same time at startup, perhaps you can squeak by on 6,500 to 7,000 watts, but it’s tight. I would not recommend it for real-world use.

• 8,000-9,000 watts: Minimal, should cover the basics with two ACs and a few small appliances.
• 10,000-12,000 watts: Comfortable, can power almost everything you’d commonly run, with some overhead for surges.
• Over 12,000 watts: Heavy, costly, and tougher to move, but the only practical choice if you need to mimic a campground pedestal in the wild.

If you need to ask whether 6,500 watts is enough for a 50 amp setup with two ACs, it probably isn’t. You’ll be frustrated when you trip breakers during summer heat.

Portable vs Standby: What Are Your Options?

Most RVers look at portables, gasoline, propane, or dual-fuel. Standby systems (think home backup style) are rare for mobile rigs unless you’re living stationary on a property. But there are trade-offs:

Portable inverters paired together can match most quiet campground rules, but double the routine maintenance and cost.

Gasoline, Propane, or Dual-Fuel?

It takes a lot of fuel to feed a generator for a big RV. Gasoline is easy to find, but it gets stale fast and can clog up carburetors if stored long-term. Propane makes for a nice backup, runs cleaner, and doesn’t gum up the system when not in use. But any big draw (especially at high watts) will drain small tanks very quickly. Dual-fuel offers flexibility between the two. There is no perfect fuel, though propane is quieter and tends to be favored among full-timers who dry camp a lot.

• Gasoline: High power, generally more portable, but noisy and needs careful storage.
• Propane: Cleaner, quieter, but efficiency is about 10-15% lower than rated wattage on gas.
• Dual-fuel: A little heavier, but gives you a backup.

It is surprising how often people ignore propane readiness, then end up running their generator less than they expected because they did not want to haul or refill extra tanks.

Do You Need an Inverter Generator?

If you just want lights and cool air, maybe not. But nearly every RV these days powers laptops, smart TVs, and battery chargers. Old-school open-frame generators push out “dirty” sine waves that can damage delicate electronics over time.

Inverter generators are quieter and much easier on your gadgets. They also idle lower when not under full load. The trouble is price, anything big enough to power a large RV will run you serious money, unless you are willing to parallel a set of smaller ones.

You can run a 50 amp RV with open-frame generators if you just need basic comfort, but invest in inverters if you want to protect your technology or camp quietly.

Wiring Your Generator to a 50 Amp RV: Adapters and Limitations

Here’s the catch, most portable generators, even the big ones claiming “50A RV Ready,” deliver only 120V, not both legs like at the RV park. That means:

• If the generator has a 120/240V outlet, you’ll need a proper 50A RV adapter
• You won’t get a true 100A like at a full hookup; you’re limited to the generator’s real total output
• If you parallel two inverter generators, use a suitable connection kit for safe balanced output

I have seen RVers get confused and think their 50A plug means they can actually run everything as if plugged into a campground. That’s not happening except with the very largest home backup units. Generators under 12,000 watts are usually limited to a single leg (50A at 120V, or 25A at 240V split for the two legs).

There is no trick to bypass this. Size your generator to match the real equipment you’ll be running, and do not assume adapters “unlock” more power than the generator can provide.

Example Generator Setups That Work Well

• Pulsar 12,000W Dual Gas/Propane: About 9,500 running watts on gas, enough for two ACs and kitchen loads. Big, noisy, but reliable.
• Champion 8,500W Inverter: Good mix of portability and power, under 200 pounds, can be paralleled to add more in the future.
• Twin Honda EU7000is Setup: Two inverters paired, very quiet, smooth for electronics, enough total power, but a serious investment.
• Westinghouse WGen9500DF: Combines dual fuel, big output, and one of the most affordable watt/dollar ratios for large rigs.

Your choice really comes down to use case. If you rarely boondock and mostly want backup for emergencies, open-frame makes sense. For extended dry camping or regular travel, inverter models (paired, if necessary) are safer and more pleasant to be around.

Other Things to Consider Before You Buy

• How will you move the generator? Over 9,000 watt units can weigh 200+ pounds.
• Are you banking on running both ACs full-tilt, or could you cycle one on and off?
• Are you sensitive to noise, or will your neighbors be?
• What is your total available storage space on the RV or in your tow vehicle?
• Would you rather run multiple small generators in parallel or just deal with one big unit?

Focus on what you actually do in your RV. If you only hit the microwave for popcorn and ignore the water heater, you can save cash and go smaller. But if luxury camping is your thing, buy larger and keep the peace of mind.

Ways to Reduce Generator Demand

Sometimes camping is about compromise. Here are a few practical ways to stretch a smaller generator further:

• Install soft-start kits on ACs to reduce startup surge
• Stagger when large appliances run (turn off water heater when using coffee maker)
• Switch to propane for the fridge and water heater where possible
• Upgrade AC units to energy-efficient models
• Use LED lighting and avoid high-wattage electronics

These tweaks let you run just a bit smaller if the budget/space constraint is tight. But if you want a set-and-forget solution, stick with a larger generator.

A Few Common Mistakes

• Assuming a “50 amp RV ready” sticker on a generator means you can run 50 amps at once. You can’t, your real output is much less.
• Buying a generator too small and having to chase breakers and angry family in the heat.
• Ignoring surge needs, always pad your numbers by 15 to 20 percent for startup spikes.
• Cheap extension cords, always use a heavy duty rated set for RVs.

Takeaways

If you have a 50 amp RV with 2 AC units, aim for a generator with 8,000 to 12,000 running watts. Factor in everything you plan to power, and do not gamble with smaller sizes unless you enjoy troubleshooting outages. Parallel inverters can save your back and ears, but bring a bigger price tag. Fuel choice and portability matter too, it is not only about total watts.

If you have questions, compare your actual electric panel draws with appliance watt ratings. And if you are not confident, talk to an RV electrician or dealer. But don’t blindly trust the salesperson, they might tell you that a 5,000 watt unit will do the job. In my experience, that is wrong for nearly everyone running dual AC and modern RV amenities.