You can install a sump pump in Cherry Hill even if you are more comfortable hooking up a trailer or planning a section hike. The short answer is yes: with some basic tools, patience, and a clear step by step plan, a homeowner can handle sump pump installation. But there are a few moments where, if you do not feel confident with concrete, plumbing, or electric work, hiring a local pro for basement waterproofing Cherry Hill NJ might actually save your trip money and your sanity.
If you spend most weekends on trails, in a camper, or planning the next road loop, your house is probably more like your base camp. Losing that base to a wet basement or a flooded storage room hits harder than it sounds. Gear molds. Tents stink. That nice down bag you bought for a cold section of the AT clumps and never feels the same again.
So this guide is for people who love the outdoors, but still need a dry, boring, predictable basement back home in Cherry Hill or nearby. Something that just works quietly while you go get lost on Pine Barrens sand roads or take the RV out toward the mountains.
Why adventurers should care about sump pumps
If you already know the difference between a dry bag and a trash bag, you know moisture ruins things fast. Basements in Cherry Hill are not that different from a damp valley campground.
You get:
– Heavy rain that comes in fast
– High water tables in some neighborhoods
– Snow melt and freeze / thaw cycles
– Old foundation walls that have seen better days
Your hiking and camping gear usually lives in one of four places:
1. Basement shelves
2. Plastic totes on a basement floor
3. A corner near the water heater
4. The garage, until the basement swallows the overflow
If that space floods once, you might shrug it off. If it does it again, it starts to feel like you are destroying a small gear shop every spring.
A sump pump is basically your basement drainage ditch with a motor. It gathers water to one low point and kicks it outside before it has a chance to soak your stuff.
If you have ever camped in a low spot and watched water creep under your tent in a storm, it is the same idea. The difference is, in your basement you can cheat and use a pump instead of a shovel at 2 a.m.
How a sump pump actually works
To be honest, the concept is simple, but the details trip people up.
Here is what happens in a normal setup:
– A pit is cut in the lowest part of your basement floor
– Drain pipes, gravel, or natural groundwater lead water into that pit
– Once the water level rises to a set height, a float switch turns on the pump
– The pump sends water through a discharge pipe to the outside of your house, far from the foundation
– The float drops, the pump stops, and your basement floor stays dry
It is a basic cycle. But like setting up camp, the little choices matter.
Pitching a tent on a small bump is good. Pitching in a depression is bad. Using a good footprint is good. A tarp that catches water is bad.
Same with sump pumps:
– Good: pit in the lowest spot, proper gravel, tight discharge pipes
– Bad: pit too shallow, weak pump, hose that freezes or dumps water right at your foundation
If you think of a sump pump as “set it and forget it,” you will probably forget it until the one storm when it decides to fail.
You do not need to obsess over the system, but you should know the basic parts and where they are.
The Cherry Hill twist: soil, storms, and old basements
Cherry Hill is not the Rockies, but the local ground still has personality. Some houses sit on heavier clay that holds water. Others are closer to sandy soil that drains faster. Add that to older housing stock in some parts of town and you get a lot of basements that stay damp even when it does not look like they are flooding.
If you:
– Smell musty air downstairs
– See white powder on walls (efflorescence)
– Notice rust on metal shelves
– Have gear that always feels cool and clammy
you are already in the zone where a sump pump and a better drainage system can help.
Outdoor people sometimes ignore this. You might think, “I sleep in a tent, I can handle a little damp.” That is fine for a weekend. For a house, it is different. Constant moisture can lead to mold, wood rot, and long term foundation trouble.
So if you treat your home like a base camp, think about how careful you are choosing a tent spot. Your foundation deserves at least that level of attention.
Gear check: tools and parts you need for installation
If you are still reading, you are probably at least considering a do it yourself install. It is not the easiest project, but it is not the hardest either. I would say it sits somewhere around “repacking wheel bearings on a trailer” in difficulty. Manageable, but you cannot rush it.
Here is a basic list of what you need.
Tools
- Hammer drill with a concrete bit
- Jackhammer or rotary hammer for breaking the slab
- Shovel and digging bar
- 5 gallon buckets for hauling soil and concrete chunks
- PVC saw or hacksaw
- Pipe wrench or big adjustable wrench
- Level and tape measure
- Shop vacuum
- Caulk gun
- Basic electric tools: wire strippers, voltage tester if needed
Some of this you can rent. I would not buy a jackhammer for one project unless you just really like noisy tools.
Materials
- Sump basin (plastic pit, often with a lid)
- Sump pump (submersible is common in finished basements)
- Check valve for the discharge line
- 1 1/2 inch or 2 inch PVC discharge pipe, depending on the pump outlet
- Unions, 90 degree and 45 degree fittings
- Primer and cement for PVC
- Gravel for around the basin
- Concrete mix to patch the floor
- Silicone or polyurethane sealant
- GFCI outlet nearby, or an electrician to add one
If juggling concrete, plumbing, and wiring in one project feels like too much, that is normal. Many people who can back a trailer into a narrow campsite still call a pro for sump work.
You do not have to prove anything by doing it all yourself.
Step by step sump pump installation
I will walk through a typical install. Some basements have existing French drains or partial systems, so your exact path might look a bit different.
1. Pick the right spot
The pit usually goes at the lowest point of the basement floor. That is not always obvious by eye, so you can:
– Use a long level
– Pour a small amount of water and watch where it likes to pool
– Check where past water stains are worst
Other things to keep in mind:
– Stay away from footings for load bearing walls
– Pick a spot where it is easy to run pipe up and out to the yard
– Make sure it is close enough to a circuit that can handle the pump
You might not get a perfect spot with all three. That is fine. You are just trying to avoid obvious mistakes like putting the pit in the highest corner or too far from any exterior wall.
2. Cut and break the concrete
You will start by cutting a circle in the slab slightly bigger than your basin. After that:
– Score the outline with a concrete saw or use a hammer drill to create a series of holes
– Use a jackhammer or rotary hammer to break the concrete inside the circle
– Remove chunks into buckets
– Dig out the soil until the basin can sit level with its rim at or just below the finished floor height
This part is messy and a bit tiring. If you have done any fire ring building or digging a gray water pit on a long camping trip, the feeling is similar, just indoors and with more concrete dust.
Try not to rush. A clean hole with enough room for gravel around the basin helps a lot.
3. Set the basin
Pour a layer of gravel at the bottom of the hole. Set the basin on this base.
Check these points:
– The basin is level
– The rim height matches or slightly dips under the slab edge
– There is a gap of a few inches around the sides for backfill gravel
If your basin has predrilled holes, they let groundwater in from the sides. Some people tape them for very sandy soil. In Cherry Hill, many basements do fine leaving them as they came from the store, but this is one of those small calls where you need to look at your soil.
Backfill around the basin with gravel up to a couple of inches below the slab. This helps drainage and supports the pit.
4. Install the pump inside the basin
Drop the pump into the basin on a small bed of gravel or a plastic stand if one came with it. You do not want the pump sitting in mud.
Attach a short piece of vertical pipe to the pump outlet. This pipe will connect to your check valve.
Points to double check:
– The power cord reaches the outlet without tension
– The float switch moves freely, with no wires or pipe blocking it
– The pump is sitting flat
Some people skip checking the float and later wonder why the pump does not turn on. Just move the float by hand and watch how it behaves.
5. Add the check valve
The check valve goes above the pump on the vertical pipe. It keeps water from flowing back down when the pump shuts off.
You usually:
– Glue or clamp it in place, following the arrow marking the flow direction
– Leave access so you can replace it later if needed
If you have ever dealt with a backflow issue in an RV plumbing system, this is the same concept. A small part that saves the pump from cycling endlessly.
6. Run the discharge line
From the check valve, continue with PVC pipe up toward the joists. Then out through a rim joist or wall to the yard.
This part takes some planning:
– Keep the path as straight as you can
– Use 45 degree turns instead of sharp 90s where possible
– Secure the pipe to joists or walls with clamps
– Slight pitch outward once you are above grade so water does not sit in the line
You need to drill a hole through the rim joist for the final exit. Seal around that hole later to keep air and bugs out.
Outside, extend the discharge line far enough away from the foundation so water does not run right back toward your house. Some people bury the line shallow with a pop up emitter in the yard. Others use a simple extension with a splash block.
In Cherry Hill winters, the line can freeze if it holds standing water. That is why the slight outward pitch matters.
7. Patch the floor
Inside, once the plumbing is done and you are happy with the setup, mix concrete and patch around the basin.
General tips:
– Clean loose debris around the hole
– Use a bonding agent or roughen the slab edges for better grip
– Pour concrete up to the slab height, level it with a trowel
– Leave the lid of the basin accessible
This part does not have to look like a showroom floor, but if you take your time it can blend in fairly well.
8. Wire and test the pump
Most sump pumps plug into a standard 120 volt outlet. That outlet should be on a dedicated circuit with GFCI protection. If you are not comfortable judging the electrical side, this is one place where calling an electrician is not overkill.
Once power is ready:
1. Plug in the pump
2. Fill the basin with water (use buckets or a hose)
3. Watch the float rise
4. Listen for the pump to kick on
5. Walk outside and see if water comes out where it should
Let it cycle a couple of times. Check for any leaks along the discharge line, especially at joints and the check valve.
If something feels off, do not just hope it goes away. This is like ignoring a weird grinding sound on your trailer bearings. Problems rarely fix themselves.
Choosing the right pump for your house and habits
Picking a sump pump is like picking a backpacking stove. You have a few main types, and each one fits a slightly different style.
Here is a simple comparison.
| Type | Pros | Cons | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Submersible pump | Quieter, pit can be sealed, less in the way | Usually costs more, can be harder to access | Finished basements, frequent use |
| Pedestal pump | Cheaper, easy to service motor | Louder, more exposed, lid cannot be fully sealed | Utility basements, budget installs |
| Battery backup pump | Runs during power outages, extra safety | Battery needs maintenance, higher cost | People who travel often or store valuable gear |
If you spend lots of time away on multi day trips, that backup option moves from “nice” to “pretty sensible.”
If you plan to be in a state park with patchy cell service while a nor’easter hits, a battery backup pump is cheaper than coming home to a soaked basement.
You do not need the biggest pump on the shelf. Look at:
– Horsepower rating (1/3 HP or 1/2 HP is common)
– Flow rate at the height it needs to pump (the “head”)
– Warranty and brand support
An oversized pump that short cycles is not ideal. A tiny one struggling to keep up in every storm is worse. If your basement only sees minor seepage, a 1/3 HP submersible is often enough. If you are in a known wet area with heavy flow during storms, 1/2 HP can be safer.
Connecting this to your life outdoors
You might be thinking this all feels very “homeowner guide” and not much like an adventure topic. I thought that at first too, but then I pictured what is actually sitting in many Cherry Hill basements:
– Climbing ropes
– Tents carefully dried and then shoved into plastic totes
– Down sleeping bags in loose storage sacks
– Fly rods, waders, boots
– Bike gear, panniers, helmets, repair stands
– Backpacks loaded and ready by the stairs
Now imagine six inches of water from a storm pooling around all that, plus the slow creep of mold spores in the weeks after. It is not as dramatic as a broken leg on a trail, but the damage adds up.
If you like your house to feel like a gear lodge where every trip starts and ends, a dry basement matters.
Some practical connections:
– You can store more gear on lower shelves without fear
– You can dry tents or tarps indoors on bad weather days
– You can set up a small home gym or tuning bench downstairs
– You can keep food storage, fuel canisters, and clothing in better shape
I am not saying a sump pump gives you a perfect basement. It does not fix wall cracks or poor grading outside by itself. It is one tool. But for many Cherry Hill homes, it is the difference between “accept that the basement smells like a cave” and “treat this like useful space.”
Extra touches that make life easier later
If you are going to all this trouble, there are a few small add ons that help a lot when you are busy packing up for a week on the road and do not want to babysit a pump.
Water alarm
A simple battery powered alarm that sits on the floor near the pit or has a small sensor that hangs inside it. When water reaches a certain level, it beeps.
Not fancy. But if the float sticks or the pump fails, you get some warning before things get serious.
Label the circuit
Mark the breaker that feeds the sump pump clearly. If someone is working on outlets or lights months from now, you do not want them to shut off the pump by mistake before a storm.
It sounds obvious, but small details like this tend to get skipped.
Keep clearance around the pit
Try not to pile storage boxes, bikes, or coolers right on top of the sump lid. When something goes wrong, you do not want to unload half your basement to reach the pump.
Think of it like leaving room to get into your RV underbed storage without moving everything on top of the hatch.
Maintenance checklist for people who travel a lot
You do not need to baby a sump pump, but ignoring it for years is risky. A simple schedule helps, especially if you love weekend trips that might line up with stormy weather.
Here is a basic rhythm:
| When | What to check | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Every 3 months | Test pump by pouring water into pit, listen for smooth start / stop | Catches early failure |
| Spring and fall | Clear debris from basin, inspect float, check discharge outside | Prepares for heavy rain seasons |
| Before long trips | Confirm pump runs, backup battery (if any) is charged | Peace of mind while away |
| Every 2 to 3 years | Inspect check valve, listen for slamming or chatter | Reduces wear and odd noises |
You might think this is overkill. I used to think the same, until a friend spent a week on a road trip and came back to a burnt out pump and a basement that smelled like a bog. The cost of a quick quarterly check is small compared to that mess.
Where sump pumps fit into the bigger waterproofing picture
A sump pump is one piece of a larger system. If you like checklists before a backpacking trip, a similar mindset helps here.
Outside drainage
Before or during sump install, take a slow walk around your house during a normal rain.
Look for:
– Gutters overflowing or clogged
– Downspouts that dump water right next to the foundation
– Low spots where water pools near the house
– Soil sloping toward your walls instead of away
Fixing some of these can reduce how hard your pump needs to work.
Examples:
– Add downspout extensions so water exits several feet from the wall
– Clean gutters twice a year
– Add soil along the foundation to create a gentle slope away
These changes do not replace a sump in a wet basement, but they help a lot.
Interior drainage and wall issues
Some basements only need a sump. Others benefit from interior drainage channels or French drains that feed into the pit.
Signs you might need more than a simple pit:
– Water comes through the joint where floor meets wall
– Rot or mold on wall studs
– Horizontal cracks on block walls
– Regular puddles that seem to appear from multiple spots
In cases like that, the project can grow beyond comfortable do it yourself territory. You might be better off getting estimates from local basement waterproofing pros and then deciding what part you want to handle yourself.
It is not weak to call in backup here. You would not try solo rescue on a seriously injured partner far from a trailhead if help was close and trained.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Here are some of the errors that people in Cherry Hill run into when they try to handle sump pump installs quickly or on the cheap.
Placing the discharge too close to the house
If the pipe sends water right next to your foundation, the pump just keeps recirculating the same water. It might “work,” but the system feels like walking in circles.
Better:
– Aim for at least 8 to 10 feet away
– Make sure the ground slopes away in that area
Using flexible hoses for permanent discharge
Those corrugated black hoses look easy. They are. They also clog, crack, and are more likely to freeze.
PVC pipe looks less friendly at first, but it is a better long term choice.
Ignoring noise and vibration
A loud knock when the pump shuts off often points to an issue with the check valve or how the pipe is braced.
If you notice:
– Loud clunks when the pump stops
– Pipes rattling on joists
– Squealing or grinding from the pump
do not just accept it. Small adjustments with pipe clamps or valve replacements can fix this. Left alone, noise can signal real wear.
Not planning for outages
Cherry Hill storms do cut power at times. If you know your basement collects a lot of water, a standard pump without backup is a clear weak spot.
You do not have to buy a full backup system, but at least think about:
– Battery backup pumps
– Water powered backup pumps where city water pressure is strong
– A generator with enough capacity to keep the pump running
Ignoring this piece and hoping every storm respects the power lines is a gamble.
Is a DIY sump pump install right for you?
This is where your outdoor experience might actually help your decision.
Ask yourself:
– Do you handle multi step projects on your RV or gear without getting overwhelmed?
– Are you comfortable renting and using tools like a jackhammer?
– Do you have a weekend or two to give this your full attention?
– Are you okay with some concrete dust, mud, and noise inside your house?
If that list feels normal, a DIY sump install can be a satisfying project. You can see the result every time a storm rolls through and the basement stays dry.
If your eyes glaze over, or if your schedule is slammed with work, kids, or long trips, there is no shame in calling a professional. Your time might be better spent planning the next camping loop while someone else handles the pit and plumbing.
The only bad path is doing nothing while your basement keeps getting wetter. Moisture rarely gets better with time on its own.
Quick questions adventurers tend to ask
Can I store gear right next to the sump pit?
You can, but give the pump at least a couple of feet of breathing room. You want space to service the pump, and you do not want small items falling into the pit if the lid is off.
For water sensitive gear like sleeping bags or camera stuff, keep it on shelves a bit higher off the floor. Even with a good pump, accidents happen.
How long does a sump pump usually last?
Many last around 7 to 10 years with light to moderate use. If your pump runs constantly during wet seasons, its life might be shorter.
Once your pump is over 7 years old, it makes sense to think about a planned replacement. That way you are not forced into a rushed purchase in the middle of a storm.
Do I really need a battery backup if I do not travel much?
Need is a strong word. Plenty of people get by without a backup pump. But if you have a finished basement, expensive gear, or just hate surprises, a backup system takes the edge off storm forecasts.
If your budget is tight, start with a solid main pump and good drainage. You can add backup later as an upgrade.
Can I install two pumps in one pit?
Yes. Some setups use a primary pump and a secondary pump slightly higher in the pit. The second one kicks on only if the first pump fails or cannot keep up.
This can be helpful for large houses or very wet sites. It does add complexity, so it is not the first step for most homes.
What is the simplest improvement if I am not ready for a full install?
If you are not ready for tools and concrete, start outside:
– Extend downspouts
– Clean gutters
– Fix obvious grading issues
– Move gear off the floor with shelves or pallets
Those simple tasks cost less effort and help even before you commit to a sump install.
And if you are standing in your Cherry Hill basement right now, looking at damp walls and your favorite gear stacked in the corner, maybe ask yourself one more thing:
What feels better, spending a few weekends fixing the problem, or wondering after every storm what you are going to find when you come back from your next trip?
